After The Iron Curtain Fell
2002 & 2013
It was the early 1990s. The Iron Curtain had fallen and the Cold War was over. I was one of three foreigners, a Canadian, an American and an Israeli, regularly invited to participate in a European government working group of “experts” on the research, development and exploitation of technology in the protection against terrorism.
To demonstrate and solidify the new friendship between the former East and West, representatives from both sides began to work together in common cause, - to counter terrorist activities. The first joint gathering was held in Budapest Hungary.
I recall standing along the fence by a cottage to be used as our meeting place near the Budapest Airport. Fields of bright red poppies dominated the landscape. For Canadians and Americans, think of a large field, thickly covered by bright yellow dandelions. Now, imagine that all the yellow is a brilliant scarlet as far as the eye can see. If I had been found there a few years before, I would have been shot.
Once inside for the meeting, the reality of the new situation came home to me when a man with a thick Eastern European accent asked me where I was from. When I replied, “Canada”, he told me that he loved his time in Canada and skating on the Rideau Canal in the Nation’s capital. A few words later, as we began to pursue the meeting objectives, I realized that he had been an enemy spy.
On leaving the hotel and touring Budapest, one could observe the drab, unkempt buildings, some with evident bullet holes reminding of a revolution almost 40 years before, and streets with crumbling balconies; or, one could focus on the rich underlying architecture of an earlier time. What was once a Christian church on the Buda side of the city was now filled with stores and street vendors. The inside walls of another formerly Christian church on the hill of the Pest side of the city were covered with Islamic murals, evidence of other periods when control of the city passed back and forth between Christian and Muslim armies. Along the river, gypsies sold beautifully embroidered white table-cloths; running to hide whenever police appeared.
A similar trip to Berlin allowed me to pass through the Brandenburg Gate that once divided East and West, Democratic Capitalism vs Communist Totalitarianism. There, I visited a small area with modern streets, shops and bars. It had been a showpiece where Communist propagandists took visitors on the pretense that it represented their enormous success. In reality, the surrounding area was as destitute as that I had seen in Hungary.
This year, I returned to visit Berlin with my partner for the first time in over 20 years. I could not have been more amazed at how things had changed. East and West Berlin are now colorful, clean examples of prosperous Germany. Despite the economic downturn elsewhere, streets were filled with the hustle and bustle of a city on the go.
One visit cannot do justice to the myriad of modern and historical sites that fill this dynamic city. In my two weeks there, I tried to experience a diverse sample at a relaxed pace.
To demonstrate and solidify the new friendship between the former East and West, representatives from both sides began to work together in common cause, - to counter terrorist activities. The first joint gathering was held in Budapest Hungary.
I recall standing along the fence by a cottage to be used as our meeting place near the Budapest Airport. Fields of bright red poppies dominated the landscape. For Canadians and Americans, think of a large field, thickly covered by bright yellow dandelions. Now, imagine that all the yellow is a brilliant scarlet as far as the eye can see. If I had been found there a few years before, I would have been shot.
Once inside for the meeting, the reality of the new situation came home to me when a man with a thick Eastern European accent asked me where I was from. When I replied, “Canada”, he told me that he loved his time in Canada and skating on the Rideau Canal in the Nation’s capital. A few words later, as we began to pursue the meeting objectives, I realized that he had been an enemy spy.
On leaving the hotel and touring Budapest, one could observe the drab, unkempt buildings, some with evident bullet holes reminding of a revolution almost 40 years before, and streets with crumbling balconies; or, one could focus on the rich underlying architecture of an earlier time. What was once a Christian church on the Buda side of the city was now filled with stores and street vendors. The inside walls of another formerly Christian church on the hill of the Pest side of the city were covered with Islamic murals, evidence of other periods when control of the city passed back and forth between Christian and Muslim armies. Along the river, gypsies sold beautifully embroidered white table-cloths; running to hide whenever police appeared.
A similar trip to Berlin allowed me to pass through the Brandenburg Gate that once divided East and West, Democratic Capitalism vs Communist Totalitarianism. There, I visited a small area with modern streets, shops and bars. It had been a showpiece where Communist propagandists took visitors on the pretense that it represented their enormous success. In reality, the surrounding area was as destitute as that I had seen in Hungary.
This year, I returned to visit Berlin with my partner for the first time in over 20 years. I could not have been more amazed at how things had changed. East and West Berlin are now colorful, clean examples of prosperous Germany. Despite the economic downturn elsewhere, streets were filled with the hustle and bustle of a city on the go.
One visit cannot do justice to the myriad of modern and historical sites that fill this dynamic city. In my two weeks there, I tried to experience a diverse sample at a relaxed pace.
Commuting is made easy by an enormous modern subway system that is integrated into a larger network of buses and trains that service the suburbs and other cities of Germany. It is, however, such a complex network that it is easy for visitors to get lost. Whenever we went somewhere new, we checked and rechecked our maps; and, where there were transit employees, we confirmed routes with them. This did not, however, stop us from being hustled onto a departing train by a Station attendant and traveling two hours south when we were to have gone north.
Tour buses and riverboats are plentiful at very reasonable prices. Taking those that would allow you to get on and off to visit sites is a must.
If you ever wonder why streets in the old parts of Berlin are wide, the answer is that there used to be a rule that the streets must be no less wide than the buildings lining its route are tall.
Tour buses and riverboats are plentiful at very reasonable prices. Taking those that would allow you to get on and off to visit sites is a must.
If you ever wonder why streets in the old parts of Berlin are wide, the answer is that there used to be a rule that the streets must be no less wide than the buildings lining its route are tall.
The German Parliament, the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and what is left of the Berlin wall are must to see, even if just to say that you have been there. At both the Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie, you will encounter kiosks where you can have your photo taken wearing Soviet or Western Allied military regalia.
I selected Charlottenburg Castle as an example of the German/Prussian history and the life of the aristocracy of the late 17th and early 18th centuries. It is the largest castle in Germany and was once home to the Prussian King Friedrich. Originally named Lutzenburg Palace, it became known as Charlottenburg Palace following the death of King Friedrich’s wife, Sophia Charlotte, who died as Queen in 1705.
Close your eyes and imagine the castle and horse drawn carriages discharging German elite at the front door. See ladies with large white wigs and very large skirts dancing with equally decorated gentlemen in a large chandelier and candlelit ballroom. Look out of immense glass windows at others walking in a very large, long garden with its own pond and fountain.
The castle, like many of the buildings in Berlin, was heavily damaged during the Second World War and was restored to its original beauty in the 1950s.
Taking a tour inside the palace reveals elegance befitting only the Regal of the day; and, in my opinion, never since attained. I was awed by the size; the many rooms; the finely crafted furnishings; the delicate china and other dinnerware; and, the paintings that adorned the walls.
When I entered with my camera hung around my neck, an attendant made a point of telling me that I could not take photographs inside. As I walked around, appreciating the splendor of the place, I saw other people taking pictures; so, I questioned one of the staff. Apparently, you can take photos if you know enough to buy a higher priced ticket. This was not advertised on the tourist price listing at the door. The message to you, my readers, is to ask if you can take photos and clarify if there is provision for exception.
In place of photos of the inside that I did not take, I have added a link to a You Tube presentation of the Palace at the end of this article.
Close your eyes and imagine the castle and horse drawn carriages discharging German elite at the front door. See ladies with large white wigs and very large skirts dancing with equally decorated gentlemen in a large chandelier and candlelit ballroom. Look out of immense glass windows at others walking in a very large, long garden with its own pond and fountain.
The castle, like many of the buildings in Berlin, was heavily damaged during the Second World War and was restored to its original beauty in the 1950s.
Taking a tour inside the palace reveals elegance befitting only the Regal of the day; and, in my opinion, never since attained. I was awed by the size; the many rooms; the finely crafted furnishings; the delicate china and other dinnerware; and, the paintings that adorned the walls.
When I entered with my camera hung around my neck, an attendant made a point of telling me that I could not take photographs inside. As I walked around, appreciating the splendor of the place, I saw other people taking pictures; so, I questioned one of the staff. Apparently, you can take photos if you know enough to buy a higher priced ticket. This was not advertised on the tourist price listing at the door. The message to you, my readers, is to ask if you can take photos and clarify if there is provision for exception.
In place of photos of the inside that I did not take, I have added a link to a You Tube presentation of the Palace at the end of this article.
Almost as impressive as the inside, is the large garden at the rear of the palace.
Tourists inevitably get drawn to Alexanderplatz. One should not hold high expectation of anything appealing as it is filled with unexciting street shows and vendors of cheap products.
Near to Alexanderplatz is the Berlin TV Tower. It stands high above the city and, in the same character of others in cities around the world, there is a carousel near the top where visitors can the city in all directions. It receives about 12 million visitors each year; so, plan to book your ride up in advance or be prepared to wait an hour or more in line.
Below the tower, a man wearing a barbecue grill, propane tank and an umbrella, to shield against the sun and rain, sells sausages in buns.
If you love shopping; and have money, you will be in your glory. Stores near Alexanderplatz and along a 4 km (2.5 mi) of Kurfurstendamm are filled with high quality everything. We browsed and window shopped along Kurfurstendamm for days, succumbing to the occasional temptation; my lady for clothing and me for some of the latest technology, – big boys toys. At one end of the street are the high-end exclusive shops, Cartier, Chanel, etc.; where entry is given only to the richest.
Berlin is an international center for fashion and the arts. At my humble level, I was able to note that the landlord where we stayed was a German fashion designer; our neighbor was an American singer; and, close friends have a music studio that is known for helping individuals and groups grow their music careers.
Berlin is an international center for fashion and the arts. At my humble level, I was able to note that the landlord where we stayed was a German fashion designer; our neighbor was an American singer; and, close friends have a music studio that is known for helping individuals and groups grow their music careers.
Wherever in the world, downtown industry departs, the arts community, boutiques, clubs and restaurants move in. There is such a place in Berlin near the Warshauer Subway station on the U 1 subway line. It is now a center for weekend nightlife. After exiting the station, turn right and cross the bridge over the railway tracks and descend the stairs; or, go across the bridge, past the small stand selling fast food and turn right at the corner. The entrance is about 80 m distant on the right. In addition, city blocks in the city center is sometimes reserved for concerts and street parties. We visited one street in the downtown area, off Kurfurstendamm Street, where a concert was being held. There we ate bratwurst, drank beer and visited tented shops where local artisans sold their craft.
In addition, city blocks in the city center is sometimes reserved for concerts and street parties. We visited one street in the downtown area, off Kurfurstendamm Street, where a concert was being held. There we ate bratwurst, drank beer and visited tented shops where local artisans sold their craft.
Most people in and around the center of the city live in apartment buildings. I particularly like that many apartments had flowers in the Windows. Small shops and restaurants are scattered throughout the neighborhoods, facilitating convenient living and the bicycle culture.
Safety and security are always topics of key interest to visitors. In Berlin, I saw remarkably few police; yet, traffic was orderly and without screeching tires or speeding. Bicycle riders were in enormous abundance, all apparently enjoying their outing totally relaxed. Most streets have reserved paths on roadways or sidewalks for cyclists; and, their rights are absolutely respected. While in North America youth can be seen carrying a bottle of water, those in Germany carry bottles of beer. Despite this, I saw no evidence of drunkenness, except for a boisterous group of highly animated fans exiting a football (soccer) game. In most areas that I visited, people walked the street day and night without fear of assault. When I observed this to a local merchant, she replied “well, of course, this is Germany.” Police, as expected, told me that there should be more police; and, identified pickpocketing in the area of Alexanderplatz to substantiate their need. Taxi drivers, who truly get to know what happens at all hours, told me that the largest crime problem is the theft of bicycles and high-end baby carriages. Violent crimes are rare and provoke shock and major news coverage when they do occur.
When spring comes, people take advantage of the weather to go hiking, biking, eat on outdoor restaurant patios and simply sit on the street drinking beer and watching the world go by. It seems so civilized!
As for a return to Budapest, that will have to wait for another day.