_ Along a remote Andes Mountain road in Ecuador my friend and I saw shepherds minding sheep, but no discernible buildings. We stopped and learned that what appeared to be piles of straw in fields were houses. Straw, an owner said, helps keep out the mountain cold.
Accepting an invitation, we trekked across a field, past grazing cows, to her home.
Chickens pecked in the yard.
The interior was very dark, lit by candle and cooling embers in a fire pit. One elevated cot slept six adults. A small cage kept several guinea pigs for a later meal.